SI CAI V23G Moio → Contrada Rindena

Overview

Stage V23G of the Sentiero Italia CAI is the demanding counterpart to the descent of V23F. Where the previous stage brought you down from Etna to the valley floor, this one drives upward from Moio Alcantara into the wild heart of the Peloritani mountains, finishing at Contrada Rindena. The route gains significant elevation over its 13.9 km, passing through terraced agricultural countryside, dense Mediterranean forest, and high mountain pastures. It is a strenuous but deeply rewarding walk through some of the least-visited landscape in north-eastern Sicily.

The Trail

Moio Alcantara (Start)

The stage begins in Moio Alcantara, a small farming village at the junction of the Alcantara valley and the southern slopes of the Peloritani. The first kilometres follow mule tracks and farm lanes through the terraced countryside above the village.

Terraced Countryside

The lower slopes of the Peloritani are shaped by centuries of cultivation. You will pass through:

• Olive groves: Some trees are centuries old, their gnarled trunks wider than a person’s armspan.
• Dry-stone terraces: Built by hand over generations to retain soil on the steep slopes. Many are still maintained; others are slowly being reclaimed by scrub.
• Hazelnut orchards: The Alcantara valley is one of Sicily’s main hazelnut-producing areas, and the neat rows of trees are a characteristic feature of the landscape.
• Abandoned farmsteads: Stone-built rural houses, some roofless, that speak to a time when these slopes were more densely inhabited.

The Forest Belt

Above the cultivated zone, the path enters dense woodland dominated by holm oak, downy oak, and, on north-facing slopes, sweet chestnut. The canopy is thick and the undergrowth lush, especially in spring when ferns, cyclamen, and hellebores carpet the forest floor.

The climbing becomes more sustained in this section. The path follows old charcoal-burners’ tracks — you may notice flat, circular clearings where charcoal platforms once stood — and crosses several seasonal streams.

Mountain Pastures and the Finish

Above the tree line (here around 1,200 metres), the landscape opens into rolling grassland grazed by cattle and sheep in summer. These high pastures offer expansive views:

• South: Etna dominates, its summit often trailing a plume of vapour against the blue sky.
• North: The Peloritani ridge continues toward the Strait of Messina.
• Across the valley: On clear days, the Nebrodi mountains are visible to the west.

The path traverses these pastures before arriving at Contrada Rindena, a rural locality with basic shelter possibilities.

Sentiero Italia CAI

This stage continues the Sicilian section of Italy’s 7,000+ km national trail. The transition from the volcanic terrain of Etna (covered in V23F) to the ancient metamorphic rocks of the Peloritani is one of the most geologically dramatic sequences on the entire Sentiero Italia.

Practical Tips

• Footwear: Sturdy, broken-in hiking boots with good ankle support. The terrain is rough, steep, and potentially muddy in the forest.
• Water: Carry at least 2 litres. Streams along the route may be dry in summer. A water filter is useful for refilling from running sources.
• Navigation: CAI red-and-white blazes mark the route, but they can be faint or obscured by vegetation in the forest. Carry a GPS device loaded with the GPX track.
• Fitness: This is a strenuous stage with sustained climbing. It is best suited to experienced hikers in good physical condition.
• Best season: April to June and September to November. Summer can be oppressively hot on the lower slopes; winter may bring snow and ice to the upper sections.
• Duration: 5 to 7 hours depending on fitness and conditions.
• Transport: This is a point-to-point stage. Plan your return transport from Contrada Rindena in advance — there is no public transport. A pre-arranged taxi or a second car is essential.
• Accommodation: No staffed refuges on this stage. Wild camping is tolerated on the high pastures but leave no trace. Budget accommodation is available in Moio and Francavilla di Sicilia.
• Safety: Inform someone of your plans and expected finish time. Mobile phone coverage is patchy in the forest and may be absent on the high pastures.
• Pack light: Every extra kilogram will be felt on the climb. Bring only essentials: water, food, rain layer, warm layer, first-aid kit, navigation tools.